Closing chapter of European continent with family and friends

Our chapter on the European continent is coming to an end. It seems like a long time since we left Lomma 11 weeks and 1850 Nautical miles ago. Maybe all the experiences and meetings underway and at the 33 harbors and anchorages that we have visited make the clock move faster but the calendar slower. We have settled into the cruising life and our minds are fully occupied by the places we visit, the people we meet, and by todo’s related to the boat, children, and daily chores. In the last weeks, our land-based life came to visit us, first, our friend Johannes/Hannes who moved onboard with us last Monday, and then we spent a week on land with Martin’s parents and sister, HB and Fia and Sophie. It has been a heartwarming, fun, and fantastic time but also a contrast to our small universe onboard that we have gotten used to. We realize that our minds have drifted very far away from the life we lived 11 weeks ago.

Hannes met us on the dock in Povoa de Varzim in Northern Portugal and joined us during our last stops in Portugal. A four-day gale in combination with the cheapest harbor fees to date made us stay in Povoa de Varzim for a few extra days. One of the highlights was a visit to Porto which made a strong impression with its touristic city pulse and colorful stone houses on high hill faces sloping into the river Duoro that flows through the city. When eventually faced with the option to leave Povoa the last day of the gale or to head off without wind the following days, we opted for the first alternative and buckled up for a good 75 NM passage in the northerly 12-16 m/s gale to the small city Figueira da Foz. A solid sailing day that was rounded off by a spontaneous second dinner at a cozy tapas joint in the charming city center.

On the following days sailing towards Cascais three memories come to mind.

First, our stop in the legendary surf town Nazaré. We fell in love with the sunset views from the lighthouse on the cliff overlooking Praia do Norte, known for its gigantic waves – the biggest in the world for a few weeks per year in October/November and in February. A surf museum in the lighthouse and the surf ambiance around the cliff made us feel like big-wave surfers for a moment. We hung out in the town and on the beach for two days before setting sail to the south.

On our way to Peniche, our second memory presented itself. Orcas! Or at least orca! We were motor sailing in the nonexistent wind with an ambition to look like sailors. The sea was calm, and life was easy. Until… we noticed a big black dorsal fin joining us, just 10m away on our starboard side. When we a second later, saw the black and white body and the head silhouette, all doubts and hopes that the big animal was a shark, or an oversized porpoise were gone. Oh shit! We could feel the adrenaline pumping as we engaged in our drill for the occasion. The orca had enough time to slaughter our rudder, had it wanted, so I guess it was mostly by luck that it decided to head off elsewhere before engaging with us. Relieved, and grateful for another huge portion of luck, we continued south.

We planned to go to Peniche but as we entered the harbor, Ida convinced us that we should continue the remaining 45 NM to Cascais. So, we did. It was a beautiful calm evening so we motored and passed the westernmost point of the European continent, Cabo da Roca in the afternoon. A few hours later, also Cabo Raso, a lighthouse just around the corner from Cascais and River Tejo was passed. It was a cool view with the lighthouse beaming into the low clouds as the last daylight left us. The kids were excited, and it was emotional to meet their grandparents, waiting on the dock in Cascais. Cascais has been a milestone for us for many reasons, we have family here, and it is also where we started our first sail of Frenesi when we bought her in Lisbon during COVID in November 2020. Finally, Cascais also marks the last stop of the European continent.

Our week here has been great. To our guilty conscience, we haven’t visited Fia and HB since 2020 and it has meant a lot to all of us to have some time together here. The children have spent most of their time in the pool, some in school and on a visit to Lisbon. Martin and Linnea have focused on teaching, some boat work, and preparing for our crossing to Madeira. Sail repairs, engine service, replacing a bobstay and other to-do’s have been covered. Resting is probably for the future.

In 8 hours, we plan to set sail for our longest cruise this far, the 490 NM stretch to Porto Santo in the Madiera group. A lot of water ahead. And the beginning of our exploration of the Atlantic Ocean.